Showing posts with label minnesota gardens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label minnesota gardens. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Rose Tipping In Minnesota


This year was a great year for Roses for your Minnesota Garden, from the early spring, to the countless days of full sun we have received so far.  With all the Hybrid Tea Roses we have sold, and the countless tips I have given out to people, the most asked question is how do I take care of my Rose in the fall. 

Our Minnesota winters can be very harsh on your Roses and tipping is the only way your Hybrid Roses will survive.  Some people will tell me that they have coned, pilled leaves, and mounded dirt around their Roses and that works.  That might be true for them, but for me the ONLY WAY to keep your Hybrid Roses alive in a Minnesota winter is to tip them.


Having Hybrid Roses in your garden rather than shrub Roses is something that really stands out in a garden.  The brilliant color of a Mr Lincoln Rose or the variegated white and red of a Love Rose is simply stunning.  Yes putting them to bed for the winter takes a little work, but well worth the effort.

I start working on mine in the middle of October giving them a good watering to loosen up the soil a few days before tipping.  Some people give them a good dormant spray such as a liquid lime-sulphur material, I myself don't, but many people do.

Don't do any pruning on them as that will open up the Rose for any fungus or problems with healing.

Get some nylon string and start tying up at the base and work your way up the canes to the top, leaving about 2 extra feet of string out.  Leaving the extra string out will make it easier in the spring to pull your Rose up.  There is no reason to cinch the string tight, the main reason is to make the Rose canes easier to handle.

Use a spade fork to loosen the soil around your Rose about 8 to 10 inches.

Start digging your trench away from the base of your Rose and work back, the length of your trench should be as long as the height of your Rose, dig down about 8 to 10 inches.  The width of your trench should be able to handle the width of your Rose.

As you get closer to the base of your Rose you should be able to start tipping the Rose in. Cover the Rose with about 4 to 6 inches of soil, cover your soil with about 18 inches of leaves.  I put chicken wire over the leaves to keep them in place.

Come late March start to uncover the Rose by taking the leaves off as the ground thaws. sometime around mid April you should have your Rose up.  Clean off the Rose with your hose and give it a good watering and some fungicide.

So there you have it, a very easy way to take care of your Hybrid Tea Roses over our cold Minnesota winters.





Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Why We Don't Sell Roundup



Why We Don’t Sell Roundup At Minnesota Gardens


With more and more people realizing the effects of Roundup not only in their own gardens, but the effect it has worldwide we have decided to explain why we don’t sell Roundup.  

I was reminded after I was at a seminar at a local nursery a few weeks back that talked about the benefits of organic gardening and how they are going green for the environment.  I was very pleased until I walked around their store and noticed Roundup products.  I asked a clerk why they are selling such a horrible product if they are trying to sell their customers about going green.  Her reply was “If they don’t buy it from us, they will buy it somewhere”  That might be true, but to tell your customers your all about going green and saving the planet when you sell a product that is killing the environment is all about marketing and profits.

After I left, I stopped at a few other nursery’s ranging from the big stores to some mom and pop stores.  What I saw and experienced at every one of them was, “We are going green, we want to save the planet, we sell organic products for your health because we care.”  It was the same story over and over again.  It was simple marketing about “Look at us and how much we care about you and the environment, but go down isle 9 and buy some Roundup.”  Marketing and profits was their story, saving the environment was just a marketing tool.


The Basics Of Roundup


Roundup is what's known as a broad-spectrum herbicide, because it kills nearly anything green.  When I say nearly everything green I mean, from Crabgrass to Milkweed, yes Milkweed the plant that Monarch butterflies need to feed on.  When I was a child we would drive out to Stillwater to go boating and I remember seeing Milkweed everywhere in the ditches with 1000’s Monarchs all over them.  When I last went out to Stillwater last summer I could count on my hands the Milkweed and Monarchs I saw.



Why Roundup Is Bad
(It’s Effects On You And Your Family)


Its main ingredient is Glyphosate, but studies show Glyphosate is not as good as it is billed. Glyphosate is less toxic than many other herbicides, but it's still the third most commonly reported cause of illness among agricultural workers in California. Glyphosate products are acutely toxic to humans and animals, with symptoms like eye and skin irritation (lasting up to 7 days), cardiac depression, gastrointestinal pain, vomiting, and accumulation of excess fluid in the lungs. Glyphosate can cause other long-term damage. Population studies show increased miscarriages and non-Hodgkin's lymphoma. Animal studies show genetic damage, reduced sperm counts, cataracts, and thyroid, pancreas, and liver tumors.  For landscape maintenance workers, it ranks highest in their field as respiratory problem.
When the vast majority of today's most prevalent diseases can be traced to the same long-term side effects brought about by exposure to Roundup, we have a very real public health crisis on our hands.


(It’s Effect On Your Environment)


A person might think I am just spraying the cracks in my driveway where the weeds grow or in between the rows in my garden.  What Roundup is doing downstream from your yard is another story.
The World Wildlife fund announced that last year’s Monarch migration from Canada, to the United States and down to Mexico was the lowest it’s ever been since scientists began tracking them over twenty years ago. In fact, a 43 percent drop has been measured compared to last year, that’s huge and very concerning.  It’s not only Monarch Butterflies, but Bees as well. A lot of information has come out linking Monsanto Roundup to the death of millions upon millions of bees over the past few years.  These pollinators are very important to your environment.
In Minnesota Monarch larvae feed exclusively on milkweed, which has seen a 58 percent decrease across the Midwest between 1999 and 2010 because of herbicide (Roundup) use and loss of habitat.
In California Glyphosate has been detected beyond the recommended limits of good drinking water in 41 percent of groundwater samples tested reveals yet another concerning "side effect" of its rampant use, namely, that it is not biodegrading in the soil, as previously told to us by Monsanto.
I could go on and on about the effects of Roundup and how it is affecting you on a daily basis from the food you buy in the store to the grass your children play on the park, but I just wanted to get my basic point across to you of its effects.






What Minnesota Gardens Recommends For Weed Control
(Vinegar)


There are allot of substitutes to use instead of Roundup, but the one thing I use that is tried and true is White Vinegar.  Why douse them with something that will remain in the soil for who knows how long? Try vinegar instead. It’s is cheap. It’s easy to use. I keep gallons of the stuff in my garden shed.  I use a 50/50 mix and spray on a sunny day.  Some people use salt in the mix, I don’t.







(Go Play In The Dirt!)

Another way to take control of your weed problem that works well is your hands.    Go play in the dirt, have your kids join you, turn off the cell phones, the TV, and the internet and go play in the dirt.  I have been gardening for years, and my favorite part is always playing in the dirt.

So the next time you’re in your favorite Garden Center that promotes “We are green, we support organic gardening, and we are doing our part to save the environment.”  Ask them why they are still selling Roundup.

If you want to plant a garden for butterfly's (pollinators), check out our blog on plant selection.

If you have any garden questions please feel free to email us  info@mngardens.com  or if you have any tips please share them with us, we would love to post them.



Monday, April 6, 2015

Best Herbs For Your Minnesota Garden


Herbs For Your Minnesota Garden

So long as there is no snow on the ground, you can harvest herbs in your garden. There is nothing more satisfying and simple than snipping off just what you need and enjoying the garden fresh flavor without having to fork out a few bucks per bunch at the market.
Herbs are among the easiest plants to grow. If you have a piece of land to plant them, great, but many actually do better in a container because their prolific nature can be contained. You can also place them right near your kitchen for quick cooking access as well as having them on the balcony.
Here is my list of the ones I use the most, and are the easiest to grow.

Rosemary
Use it fresh or dried — the flavor is fantastic either way. If you grow it in a pot, it will happily move inside when the weather gets too cold. Also, since it likes to dry out between watering, it likes its own space, as there aren't too many other plants that prefer the same treatment.


Thyme
I use this for two main types of cooking,  stews and summer meat grilling marinades, especially with chicken. Thyme is a low growing plant and the plant is very hardy in Minnesota.

 Sage
It is a favorite for seasoning poultry. Best grown in full sun and moist, well-drained potting mix, and with so many choices you cant go wrong.

Parsley
Parsley puts its roots down deep. Be careful to prepare a nice deep bed for it, eight inches or so, and dress it with rich moist soil. Choose a location that gets at least six hours of sun but holds moisture well. When parsley goes dry, it wilts and seldom recovers, so keep it mulched and watered well.

Chives
Truly one of the easiest to grow and one of the most common ones around.  More than likely your neighbor or parents have some you can transplant.  If you do plant it in your garden be careful it does not take off on you.   

Oregano
Oregano plants can be set out once the risk of frost has passed and make sure to put it in a sunny area with well drained soil.  They are very drought tolerant and watch the fertilizer on them as they can handle themselves very well.

Cilantro
This is truly my favorite herb by far!  I love the taste, smell, and ease of growing it, but I like to harvest it!  Yes, that sounds crazy, but here is why.  When I take it in my hands and rub it back and forth the smell it gives off is one of the best I have ever had the pleasure of having. Keep it trimmed back for lots of new growth.

Basil
Basil is a great herb for your container garden, and one of the most popular in the garden.  Keep it moist, and with some pinching back as you take some it will flourish for months to come.

If you have any garden questions please feel free to email us  info@mngardens.com  or if you have any tips please share them with us, we would love to post them.


Saturday, April 4, 2015

Make A Hanging Basket With 4 Tomato & 4 Pepper Plants


Have you every wanted to grow a vegetable garden but just didn’t have the space or maybe you live in an apartment with limited space on your balcony. 
Here is an easy way to take one empty hanging basket and have 4 tomato and 4 pepper plants.  You can have this planted and hung up in less than 45 minutes.
First you will need an empty hanging basket, I would suggest saving the ones that you had from previous years.  If you don’t have one you can purchase one from a garden center. Once you have one, save it for the next year.

You will need to mark four holes on opposite sides about halfway up the basket as shown in the picture.  I would say an inch to an inch and a half would work just fine.



After you mark your holes, just take a scissors or garden pruner to cut out the marked holes.  When cutting your side holes out, just make a small hole and cut your hole from their.  Most baskets are a little thick and if you punch a small hole to start you might make a nice long crack in it.  You will also need to cut out the drain hole at the bottom of your basket.

So you are done with the hard part now, and now it is time to plant your tomatoes and peppers.  Attach your hanging hook to your basket and hang it in a place where you can have some room to add your potting soil and plants.
Put in about 2 inches of potting soil as you hold your tomato plant in the bottom hole.  Pack in the dirt around the bottom plant and fill more potting soil up to the bottom of the holes you cut out on the sides.

Plant about three pepper plants evenly spaced at the top of your basket.  I used cherry tomatoes in this one, but others I have used peppers.

Well there you have it, just water, fertilize and enjoy your fresh vegetables in mid summer.
If you have any questions please feel free to email us info@mngardens.com    or if you have any garden tips you want to share please email them as well. 


PLANNING YOUR FLOWER GARDEN


We received a great question from Wendy K. about how to design a flower garden.  Wendy will be receiving a $10.00 gift certificate from Minnesota Gardens for her question.
The first thing you need to find out about the area you want your flower garden in, is what type of sun is it getting, full, shade, or partial sun.  Most flowers do well best in sun, though there are some that are perfect for shade to partial shade.  Though it might be March and there is still a little snow left on the ground, now is a good time to plan not only your flower garden but your vegetable garden as well.
Think back what the area looked like around June 20th, why you ask?  June 20th is the summer solstice, the time of summer when the sun is at it’s highest level in the sky, that will give you a rough idea of the kind of sun you will be getting.  Look around and see if there are any trees, overhangs, or other things that will be blocking the sun.  Think back as to what that area looked like, was if full sun, partial, or shade.  That decision alone will be a huge factor in what you pick and how it will grow. An example would be, you would like Roses on the north side of your home, but they like full sun and will not do well at all in that location.

Once you figure out what kind of sun you will be getting you need to take some measurements and find out the size of the area.  You don’t have to get it to the inch, just walk it off and draw it down on a sheet of paper.
The first question I always ask is “What are your favorite colors?”  So lets say they like red, yellow, and white, with that I can pick out numerous plants for them to work with. So you have an area that is 10′ by 10′ and are ready to pick your plants.

Annuals  /  Perennials
I always tell people  to plan for both annuals and perennials in their garden, perennials to save money and annuals for filler.
With perennials you just have the upfront cost (about $10 to $14) and the benefit of having perennials is that after a few seasons you can divide them and thicken up, or expand your garden.
With annuals you can use them as fillers and bring different colors to your garden every season.

Size Of Your Plants
One problem that pops of at times is the layout of your garden, and by that I mean how big your flowers get during the season and over the years.
When you are laying out your plants keep in mind how big they will get over the season or over the years if you’re planting perennials.  I myself like a tight filled in flower garden but its very important to READ how big your plants will get.  Without proper spacing you run into the problems of diseases, insects (MOST INSECTS ARE BENEFICIAL TO YOUR GARDEN), stunted growth, etc.
Planting
After you layout your plants and are ready to plant them, there are a few things that you can do now to help your plants acclimate to their new home.  Make sure to have a large hole about twice the size of the pot you have, the same goes for the 4 pack of annuals.  You will be amazed at the difference it makes in the growth of your plants.  I have seen plants in gardens that could have been 60% larger if the hole that was dug originally was larger.  That is important for your root growth, and if you have clay soil make sure to add some peat for backfill.

Root Ball
When you take your plant out of the pot take a look at the root ball and the condition of the roots.  If they are tight and look to be growing around the plant you will need to break them up.  Don’t be afraid to take your fingers and loosen them up, you are really helping them get started.

Water! Water! Water!
Your plants will be very thirsty until they get established, so make sure you are watching the weather and making sure you are checking your soil for moisture.  When you are checking your soil stick your fingers down deep into the soil.  If you have dry soil at 3 inches, you can be sure that 1 gallon perennial you planted with its roots down at 8 inches is not getting the water it needs.

Enjoy!
These were the basics for planning your flower garden, and I will be getting into fertilizing, vegetable gardens, benefits of bees, and many other topics for your Minnesota Garden as the season goes on.
If you have any gardening questions please feel free to email us  info@mngardens.com  If we use your question we will send you a $10.00 Minnesota Gardens gift certificate.